Le Bistrot de JAN at the V&A Waterfront has the allure of a chic bistro, with its deep blue panelled walls, bistro chairs and beret-wearing waiters – but it’s large-scale and glamorous.
Jan Hendrick van der Westhuizen knows a thing or two about creating an ambience for all things French. He was the first South African to be awarded a Michelin star, for his restaurant in Nice in the South of France. And over the past decade has expanded to open into other restaurants, as well as magazines.
The Cape Town opening comes exactly a year after he launched Le Bistro in Nice, next to JAN, his Michelin-starred flagship restaurant. This version follows the same spirit but with a more relaxed intent. It is not about elaborate, multi-course theatre, but about deeply satisfying food done well. The sole is sublime, the chicken pie borders on legendary, and even the Caesar salad feels thoughtful and generous. It’s hearty, unfussy and full of flavour.
As always, Jan’s cooking is anchored in his South African roots. Nostalgia runs through everything he does – from references to his grandmother’s mieliepap to playful touches like panna cotta and chakalaka. It’s food that marries South African soul with French technique.
There is added resonance in the bistro’s location at the InterContinental Table Bay. It was here, he recalled at the opening just before Christmas, that he drank his first cognac as an 18-year old who had arrived in Cape Town from a farm in Middelburg to pursue his dream of studying cooking in Stellenbosch.
Although he lives in France, Van der Westhuizen maintains a strong South African footprint. KleinJAN at Tswalu Kalahari opened in 2021, though it closed earlier this year following a devastating drought, while JAN Franschhoek continues as an intimate, communal dining pop-up at La Motte.
The Cape Town bistro is run by Giles Edwards, best known for La Tete, whom Van der Westhuizen met in 2018 while filming a TV show. Edwards’ passion for French cuisine, head-to-tail cooking and respect for culinary heritage aligns with JAN’s ethos. Both share a deep appreciation for what came before.
There are playful nods to Van der Westhuizen’s collaboration with Checkers’ Forage & Feast range too – wine, spreads and cheeses that make their way onto the menu. A dedicated cheese room offers a “tour de fromage”, while a relaxed bar caters for cocktails or light bites, with live music on selected evenings.