The idea of a snowy holiday can feel wonderfully exotic to South Africans accustomed to summer sunshine and long, lazy days on the beach. Yet there’s a particular magic in trading flip-flops for snow boots, and discovering a world of glühwein, alpine spas, winter sports and hot chocolate.
Club Med’s Val d’Isère captures that fantasy. The all-inclusive resort reopened in 2022 after a €50 million revamp, and sits in the French commune of Val d’Isère, close to the Italian border. Getting there takes some effort – a long-haul flight to Geneva followed by a winding three-hour drive – but waking up to snow-capped roofs framed by grand white peaks makes it worth every kilometre. It’s the quintessential ski-resort tableau, and breathtaking.
For seasoned skiers, Val d’Isère is a dream: challenging terrain, vast lift-served off-piste routes and exceptional snow reliability. For anyone who isn’t a skier, it delivers the romantic ideal of winter in the Alps – cosy interiors, fireplaces, glühwein, chunky jerseys and knee-deep snow.
In Savoie at the heart of the French Alps, the region is one of Europe’s premier ski destinations, welcoming everyone from amateurs to professionals. It has hosted major international events, including Winter Olympics competitions. The resort makes accessing the slopes seamless: ski passes are included, and the Club Med Easy Arrival app sorts out everything from your shoe size to your gear and skill level.
Beyond skiing and snowboarding, there’s snowshoeing, electric mountain biking, dog-sledding and even cold-water lake dips. And for those who prefer less active pursuits there’s a large and inviting indoor pool, outdoor jacuzzi, sauna, yoga and a spa.
One of the most memorable experiences is the funicular ride. Gliding silently though a world of white is oddly meditative – but also feels like a scene from a James Bond film.
At the summit, the restaurant has its own alpine ecosystem. Skiers sip hot chocolate and coffee before or after heading out; or devour croissants for an energy boost. The hot chocolate alone is worth the journey.
Back at the resort, dining spans buffet and a la carte. Le Bellevarde is an upscale marketplace offering a cultural range – from Asian dishes to barbecues, French cheeses, a poissonnerie (fishmonger), and a little boulangerie (bakery) offering baguettes and pastries. The food is global, but the resort carries an unmistakable Frenchness – and a constant chorus of ‘bonjour’ from the staff. Then there is Les Millésimes, which offers refined French and Italian alpine cuisine.
Après-ski revolves around the terrace: sunshine, show, Aperol spritz (the Italian border is just over the ridge), French cheeses, barbecued fish and veg, and a live DJ. It’s relaxed, stylish and effortlessly chic.
The bar flows into a large sunken lounge that becomes the evening party space, where DJs and performers keep things lively – very much part of the Club Med DNA. Val d’Isère is social by design, with communal spaces where guests linger over aperitifs, champagne, wine, coffee or chocolat chaud. Yet rooms offer solitude when needed. Smaller rooms have been combined into larger suites; many are interleading for families. All 216 suites have been upgraded with balconies and sweeping mountain views.
The resort’s chic-casual aesthetic blends retro notes with contemporary warmth. Designed by French designer Marc Hertrich, its stone and timber palette mirrors Val d’Isère’s architecture, lending it a chalet-like authenticity.
The village itself is part of the charm – a traditional Alpine community with a 16th-century church and a lived-in feel. People shop at the local market and attend church; it’s not just a resort town. But as our guide tells us, property prices have boomed to such an extent that many locals are unable to afford to buy here.
Val d’Isère increasingly competes with glitzy Courchevel. Where Courchevel is lined with Cartier and Prada, Val d’Isère offers a quieter, more understated luxury, with brands like North Face and Patagonia. Still, things are shifting. New luxury hotels, star-studded visitors and a lively après-ski scene have prompted The Financial Times to ask whether Val d’Isère is becoming the new Courchevel.
Whatever the answer, the village is enchanting under snow – especially with Christmas in the air. The season stretches through January and February, and insiders say the sweet spot is up to early April, when the crowds thin, rates drop, and days are sunnier and longer. END
